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Finding Finesse in Your Own Kitchen

RisottoFinesse – the visual aesthetics of a dish and how the flavors and textures are presented – is something worth striving to achieve. Learning how to put a plate together – be it choosing the supporting cast of ingredients to complement the main item, or the artful arrangement of food on a dish – takes practice and confidence. First you must focus on all the components and details of your meal. What vegetables will you choose to accompany the fish or meat? What can be used to garnish the dish? Consider the size, shape and color of your plates in light of the arrangement you plan. Too much clutter on a plate can distract or detract.

In addition to the presentation, the finesse of a dish resides in a harmonious combination of ingredients that resonate with flavor. Design your plate so that the main feature has supporting elements that complement and contrast. Ask yourself if you can taste every element of your composition. Does the food excite all the senses? Your goal is the perfect balance of flavors and a synergy of textures. When each element benefits from the presence of the others, you have discovered finesse. The art lies in how you combine ingredients, in how you show them off to best advantage, juxtaposing taste and texture to create a sublime dish whose pleasure lingers in your mind long after the plate has been cleared.

Le Terroir: The Monterey Peninsula

patEating is a necessity of life, so it follows that as much as possible, we ought to make this a daily pleasure – and the experience should have a sense of place. The Monterey Peninsula is a daily source of inspiration and creativity for Chef Cal and his team.  The enduring scenic appeal of the entire region is indisputable. This is Steinbeck country, and like the author, “I would like to write the story of this whole valley, of all the little towns and all the farms and the ranches in the wilder hills. I can see how I would like to do it so that it would be the valley of the world.”

Monterey, California’s first capitol, sprawls alongside its eponymous bay, a national marine sanctuary that draws tourists from around the world. From Fisherman’s Wharf, to Cannery Row (setting of Steinbeck’s famous novel of the same name), to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the town’s past and present are inextricably linked to the sea. Sandwiched in between is the exclusive community of Pebble Beach, perched on a jutting peninsula of windswept cypresses and legendary golf courses. A dozen miles south on a justifiably famous stretch of coastline you’ll find Big Sur, with its giant redwoods, towering sea cliffs and secluded beaches, the epitome of the laid-back, California lifestyle. Yet another famous writer, Robert Louis Stevenson, called Big Sur “the most magnificent meeting of land and sea” and if you’ve been there, you know why.

While no place is perfect, some approach perfection and Carmel Valley epitomizes this. The placid cobalt skies, seemingly perpetual sunshine, verdant fields and forests, and undulating vineyards and ranches offer a peace of mind that is both seductive andSanta-Lucia increasingly rare.

Fifty years ago pear orchards flourished throughout the valley. Today, these are a distant memory, having given way to smaller ranches and vineyards. Carmel Valley wine country, although not as well known, rivals its illustrious neighbors in Napa and Sonoma. Smaller in geographical area, from the start it attracted innovative winemakers intent on producing premium wine. The wineries and vineyards are tiny by Napa or Sonoma standards, but there are fewer tasting rooms, less commercialism and less people. Unlike its larger counterparts north of San Francisco, and despite sky rocketing property values, Carmel Valley remains a rustic, rural area that retains its symbiotic relationship with the land. It offers the best of country living with its casual sprawl of horse farms, orchards, olive groves, cattle ranches, vegetable and flower farms, and of course, vineyards. Much of the region is still rugged wilderness, and the hills are alive with mountain lions, bobcats, coyotes, wild boars, foxes and eagles. It is a real, working valley, its ranching and agricultural roots still very much in evidence.

Despite the abundance of wonderful raw materials in Chef Cal’s backyard, his menus depend on ingredients from other regions of the country too, such as lobsters from Maine, lamb from Colorado and truffles from France. The point is that there’s great food all around us in this country, and he hopes to inspire each of his guests to seek out that quality of terroir, to discover what is remarkable in their own corner of the world.

The Meyer Lemon

High sugar content, lower acid, dark yellow juice, and deep rich flavor make this lemon a clear citrus winner. Citrus collectively has symbolized fertility in many cultures over eons: lush evergreen trees regularly feature leaf, blossom and fruit concurrently. Frank Meyer, traveling in China in some capacity with our agricultural department, returned early in the 1900’s with a tree purported to be a lemon/mandarin hybrid. Happily adapted to our California climate, sadly the Meyer Lemon suffered an industry threatening virus, and was quickly eradicated. Luckily, folks at U.C. developed the virus-resistant “Improved Meyer”, and backyard lemon growers were back in business. In recent decades, commercial plantings of this amazingly perfumed, palate-pleasing citrus are now pumping out significant volumes, reducing supply gaps, and extending their season.

Meyer Lemon Curd
zest of three Meyer lemons
6 ounces Meyer lemon juice
6 ounces granulated sugar
4 ounces unsalted, butter
8 egg yolks

Combine zest, juice, sugar and butter in a saucepan. Simmer over medium heat for 1 minute. Place egg yolks in large bowl. Remove saucepan from heat and slowly temper in to yolks, whisking thoroughly. Add mixture back to saucepan and place on medium heat, whisking constantly until slightly thickened, about one minute and a half. Strain mixture through fine sieve and spread into a shallow cake pan and chill for up to 2 hours in refrigerator.